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Hair Snips: 4 Types Of Hair Color

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There are pretty much four different types of hair color: permanent, demi-permanent, semi-permanent and temporary. The difference between all of these types of colors is how long they will last.

1. Permanent hair color, theoretically, lasts until it grows out. This is the only type if color that will lift your hair lighter (on virgin hair, see The Golden Rule Of Hair Color). There will probably be a little bit of fading over time but for the most part, the color is there for good.

2. Demi-Permanent hair color is meant to last for a while, but be completely faded out by the time you would have outgrowth. It typically lasts 4-6 weeks, depending on your hair. It can be used for a variety of things, including enhancing color, adding shine, toning, or coloring. It will not lift your hair at all so you have to chose a color that is the same level as your color, or darker. Demi-Permanent color is far less damaging than other types of colors, and some brands even have added protein to the mix to condition your hair.

3. Semi-Permanent hair color is only going to last about 2-4 weeks. Some tips I have heard that will hold the color longer are: 1) wash your hair in cold water 2)Don’t wash your hair every day and 3) Let the color sit in your hair for a very long time (I know one girl that sleeps with it in) before you rinse it out. Punky colors, like pink, green, blue, or any other unnatural color, usually come in semi-permanent (like Manic Panic or Pravana). There are some semi-permanent natural colors too. I guess people like these so they can try a color first, before committing to it. Like I said before, these will not lift your hair at all, because you do not use any developer. These type of colors work by color molecules that adhere to the outside of your hair. If you hair is porous, some color molecules may penetrate into the cuticle layer. This is why it is sometimes recommended to bleach your hair before using these.

4. Temporary hair colors will wash out as soon as you wash your hair. These are mostly comb-in colors, or colors in spray cans that you would use for a costume, or one-time event. Be careful, because if your hair is porous, it might grab some of the pigment, but even that won’t last long.

Now you know…

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Hair Snips: How Gray Magic Works

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Have you ever heard of “Gray Magic”?

Well, I have, because we sell it at Sally Beauty Supply (My Second Job), but also because I have heard many of my clients talk about it over the years. If you don’t know what it is, it’s a color additive that makes the color adhere better to gray hair. Gray hair is super resistant, and can be very hard to color.

So now I want to briefly discuss how gray magic works.

Gray hair is the result of the loss of yellow and red tones in the hair. The resistance of gray hair is caused by the tightening of the cuticle. Gray magic, when mixed with peroxide, helps open the cuticle wider to allow better penetration of hair color, and also helps replenish the red and yellow tones back into the hair, to give a richer, more vibrant color.

It is also equipped with “wetting agents” to replenish moisture in the hair. These wetting agents also allow gray magic to be mixed into semi-permanent colors that are used without developer. However, it will have no effect when mixed into a rinse or other temporary color.

To use gray magic, mix 10 drops for every ounce of color.

To buy it, click here or check out your local Sally Beauty Supply.

Now you know…..

Hair Snips: Why Red Hair Color Won’t Hold…

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Have you ever wondered why red hair color fades so much quicker than other colors? I’ll tell you why….

Let me give you a quick science lesson. All colors are made out of combinations of the three primary colors: red, blue and yellow.

Blue is the largest color molecule, followed by red, then yellow. Since blue and red are so large, they do not pack inside your hair as tightly as yellow. When your cuticle is opened (like from shampooing your hair), the color molecules escape from the hair shaft.

Beware: cool red colors contain both blue and red, which means they will fade even faster.

To protect your red color, invest in a red shampoo, that will deposit red pigments back in your hair, such as Quantum Riveting Reds Replenishing Shampoo.

Now you know…

Halloween Day 10: Orange and Black Streaks | hwh<3

Orange and Black Halloween Streaks

This is a fun look that is really easy and not permanent.  I just used black and orange face Makeup that I bought from the Halloween store.  I painted a few streaks in my hair.  You can do more or less than I did.

When I washed my hair, both colors washed right out.

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Check out the other 30 Days of Halloween Hair and Makeup:

Black and Orange Halloween Braid Peek-a-boo skeleton Halloween HAIR Halloween Spider Ring Ponytail

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Fall 2012 HAIR | hwh<3

So in honor of today (which happens to be the first day of fall), I decided to talk about fall hairstyles.

Fall HAIR

The first thing I want to talk about is fall colors.  It’s typical for people to color their hair darker in the fall and winter seasons and this is why:  If you never colored your hair, it would naturally be lighter in the summer and darker in the winter.  The sun essentially does the same thing as bleach; it disperses the color molecules in your hair.  This is why people get natural highlights when they are outside a lot in the summer.  In the winter, when it is cold, people don’t typically go outside much.  Therefore, their hair is not really affected by the sun, and tends to be darker colors.

When you think of fall colors, you think of reds, yellows, golds, oranges, etc.  If you do color your hair, I would opt for these types of colors.

Fall HAIR Colors

The next thing I want to talk about is styles that are going to be popular this fall.

Side Braids.

Side braids are ultra-popular right now.  If you don’t believe me, go look it up on Pinterest.  Pinterest will also show you some cool tutorials and different ways to wear side braids.

Side Braid- Fall 2012 HAIRstyles

Short Bobs.

I can’t say I am a huge fan of these because I think they are harsh on most people.  Nevertheless, they are popular right now.

Short Bob- Fall 2012 HAIRstyles

Short Wavy HAIR.

Short Wavy Hair- Fall 2012 HAIRstyles

Plaited Bun.

You will also see this and the next two all over Pinterest.

Plaited Bun- Fall 2012 HAIRstyles.

Bow Bun.

Bow Bun- Fall 2012 HAIRstyles.

Knotted Chignon.

Knotted Chignon- Fall 2012 HAIRstyles

Hair-Wrapped Ponytail.

Hair-Wrapped Ponytail- Fall HAIR 2012

Peekaboo Braids.

Peekaboo Braids- 2012 Fall HAIRstyles.

Twists.

Twists- Fall 2012 HAIRstyles

Bouffants.

Bouffant- Fall 2012 HAIRstyles

Now you are ready to conquer the fall.

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Are there any popular HAIRstyles I missed out?  Leave them in the comments.

If you liked this article, check out 
Back-To-School HAIR
Feather Hair Extensions
 
To learn more interesting facts, check out HAIR 101!

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The Golden Rule of HAIR Color: Color Won’t Lift Color | hwh<3

I want to discuss a common misconception of hair coloring.  I see people ask questions like “I put a blonde color over my brown and it’s still brown” and “How come every time I use the same color, my hair gets darker?” all the time.  Well I will tell you exactly why in 4 words: color won’t lift color.  Like, ever.

Let me explain to you why.

This is Clarice.  She has naturally blonde hair and it has never been colored.  She also has no lower body or arms.

Why color won't lift color

Clarice decided one day that she wanted to color her hair dark brown.

Why color won't lift color.

She really liked her new look, as you can tell by her huge smile, and assuming she could walk, I’m sure she would have got a ton of compliments.  However, she decided a week later that it was not her thing, and wanted her blonde hair back.  She had one of her friends pick up some golden blonde hair color to match her natural color from Wal-Mart.  Her friend, then, applied the color to Clarice’s hair and let it sit for 45 minutes, exactly like the directions told her to do.

Why Color Wont Lift Color.

So after washing out the color, this is what her hair looks like:

Why Color Wont Lift Color

What went wrong?

Obviously, for this analogy I used markers, because most people understand how markers work.  You can’t color something with a dark color and then put a lighter color on top of it, and expect it to be the lighter color.  Basically all you are doing is packing more color molecules in the hair shaft with the already dark color molecules.  The result is darker hair.

Okay, let me explain a little deeper  how color works.

Your hair is made of three parts: the medulla and cortex which are the inner parts of the hair shaft, and the cuticle, which is the scale-like protective covering of hair.  Melanin molecules or aka color pigments are located inside the cortex.  The ammonia in hair color helps lift the cuticle, allowing for the color pigments to get inside the cortex.  The color molecules are packed as much as possible into the cortex.  In permanent colors, which are most commonly used, the color molecules are meant to stay in there basically forever, so they are really super packed in there.

So back to the example I used, with Clarice.  When she first colored her hair brown, the hair color packed a ton of brown color molecules into her hair shaft.  Then, during the week that she had her brown hair, when she washed her hair she probably lost a few molecules along the way.  When they applied the blonde hair color to her hair, a few blonde color molecules packed into the spaces where the few brown molecules washed out.  It didn’t really do anything to her hair.  Color is not meant to lift color out of hair; it is meant to deposit pigment.

But I’m sure you are wondering to yourself right now, “Yeah, but how do people go from dark hair to blonde hair?”   The answer is that they either had virgin hair or it was lightened first.

Virgin hair means hair that has never been colored.  It could be that the person has never used color in their life, or that all of the previous color has grown out.  In either case, the hair that you see has no color on it.  Outgrowth is virgin hair.  Color can lift virgin hair, but it will not be that dramatic.  The reason for this is that you would mix a higher volume peroxide with the color and it will lift the hair slightly, but usually not more than a few levels.  You could possibly use a higher developer when coloring previously colored hair but it probably won’t lift that much and it will not work predictably.  That means, anything could happen.

Now the other option is to bleach your hair.  I know that freaks a lot of people out, but bleaching your hair shouldn’t ruin it too bad if it is done correctly.  If Clarice had bleached her hair to the level of blonde she wanted, and then applied the color she wanted to her hair, it would have worked a lot better.  Using the marker analogy, pretend that I used nail polish remover (which, according to the interwebs, removes marker from paper) first, and then colored the blonde over that spot, it probably would have been more blonde.

The other option that Clarice could have used, would have been to strip the color out of her hair.  The only thing that would do would remove the color molecules that have been packed in there, revealing her natural color.  Depending on how dark it is, how many times it has been colored, etc., it could take multiple processes to remove all of the color.

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Have you ever tried this?  I’d love to hear your feedback in the comments.

If you liked this article, I think you’ll like 
Types of HAIR Color
Hair Color Bowl and Brush
 
 
To read more about hair, check out HAIR 101.

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DIY Kool Aid-Colored HAIR | hwh<3

DIY Kool Aid Colored HAIR

In case you can’t see the image, let me break it down for you.

1.

Pick the color that you want  your hair to be.

(Check out my previous article, Kool Aid HAIR Color to see the different shades.)

Pour the pack of Kool Aid into a mixing bowl.

2.

Add just a few drops of water and a tiny bit of shampoo for consistency.  Mix together well, making sure there are no clumps.

3.

Section off the area of hair you want to color.  Make sure the line is straight.

4.

Fold a piece of foil over a rat-tail comb.  Place the foil along-side the hairline that has been parted off.

5.

Apply the color to your hair in small subsections.

6.

Continue step 5 until the entire section that you want colored is covered in Kool Aid.

7.

Close the foil and then wrap your head with plastic cling wrap.  Let sit for 4-5 hours or sleep with it in.

8.

Rinse your hair really good with cool water.  Don’t use shampoo.

9.

Rock your new ‘do.

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Have you ever tried this?  I’d love to hear your feedback in the comments.

If you liked this article, I think you’ll like 
A Cool Trick For Leopard Print HAIR!

To read more about hair, check out HAIR 101.

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Different Shades of Red Heads | hwh<3

As a professional cosmetologist, I see people make up their own lingo all the time.  Most people don’t quite know all of the correct terminology for hair stylists, but they try to express what they mean anyways.  Usually when that happens, I interpret the actual meaning and not what they really wanted.  A common issue is with all the different shades of red.  Since it is fall, a lot of people will color their hair darker tones and red colors are good for fall hair colors.  In this article, I want to share with you what the actual terminology for the shades of red are.

Auburn

Auburn HAIR

Auburn is a mixture between red and brown hair colors.

Mahogany

Mahogany HAIR<—-HAIR

Mahogany, like auburn, is a mixture between red and brown.  However, it is darker, richer and more reddish than auburn.  It is based off the color of Mahogany, which is a type of wood.

Mahogany wood<—–Wood

Burgundy

Burgundy HAIR

Burgundy is similar to Mahogany, but instead of reddish-brown, it is more of a reddish-purple.  It is based off of burgundy, which is a type of red wine.

Burgundy wine

Maroon

Maroon HAIR

Maroon is similar to Auburn, in the sense that is is a light reddish-brown.  However, the main difference is that it is more red than brown, which is the opposite of Auburn.

Copper

Copper HAIR

Copper hair is a red-orange tone.

Orange-Red

Orange Red HAIR

Cherry Red

Cherry Red

Cherry red looks similar to maroon or burgundy but not really purple.  It is more of a dark red.  Like Cherries :)

Cherries

Natural Red

Natural Red

Obviously, natural red color can vary from person to person, but is typically around this shade.

Fire-Engine Red

Red HAIR

I would say that this type of color is only possible in semi-permanent colors, meaning they will not last long, which is pretty much true.  However, Matrix has a red line (HD Reds) that turns out pretty much this color and it’s permanent.

fire engine

Strawberry Blonde

Strawberry Blonde

It’s basically a blonde color with a reddish tint.

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Are there any other red shades I left out?  Leave them in the comments!

If you liked this article, check out

Types of HAIR Color

Hair Color Bowl and Brush

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Celeb HAIRstyle of the Week (August 17- September 2, 2012) | hwh<3

Welcome to the blonde side, Kim!!!!

I decided to chose Kim Kardashian this week for my Celeb HAIRstyle of the Week.

She tweeted pictures on Friday of her new blonde ombre ‘do.

Kim Kardashian New Blonde Ombre Hair

Although they are not really good pictures, she did post a few other pictures since then, but her hair does not look blonde in them.

Kim Kardashian Ombre Blonde Hair

Even Kim is confused why her newer pics don’t appear to be blonde.

Kim Kardashian Twitter #confused "Not sure why my hair looks so light in some pics and dark in others"

Either way, I definitely like the blonde.  I always support blonde hair and I think blondes have more fun!

This isn’t the first time.  She’s had blonde hair before and it looked amazing.

Kim Kardashian New Blonde HAIR

What do you think about Kim’s new Hair?  Leave your feedback in the comments!
 
Check out the past Celeb HAIRstyles of the Week.

Rihanna tweets of Beyonce, "This pic could single handedly destroy the self esteem of an entire nation."        Gabby Douglas' Hair       Elizabeth Beisel- Olympic US Silver Medalist for 400m Individual Medley (Swimming) & awesome HAIR

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What’s Your Skin Tone? | hwh<3

You already know this, but skin is by far the largest organ in the human body.  Everybody can see your skin and everyone has a different color and tone.  The color of your skin comes mostly from your ethnic background, although sun exposure or dye can alter it.  Everyone has either a warm or cool undertone.  You’re probably thinking “that’s cool, but why does this matter on a hair blog?”  Well, it matters because your hair color, make-up, or clothes can either accentuate it or degrade it.

Obviously, we want to accentuate it, which will make us look more flattering.  But before we can play it up, we need to figure out what our skin tone is.

I made a chart of roughly some skin colors and tones that you can try to match up to your skin.

Skin Tone and Color Chart

Naturally I am fair-skinned, since I am Irish/German descent (which is as white as they come).  However, I tan pretty regularly in the sun or tanning beds (which is bad because my good friend just got stage 2 melanoma removed) but I can’t help it.  I hate not being tan.  It feels so nice to lay out in the sun during the summer.  Just be careful not to burn.  I also use self-tanning lotions and get spray tans done which can make me really dark.  As of now, I fall into the tan category.

A good way to tell if your skin tone is warm or cool is to look at the veins in your forearm.  If they are blueish, then you have cool tones.  If they are greenish, your skin is a warm tone.

I have always thought that my skin tone is warm, because I naturally turn reddish colors when I am tan.  However, I do believe, after writing this article, that my skin tone is cooler.  My veins in my arm are blue.  I also look better with cooler colors.  Green, blue, purple, magenta and silver eye shadows are the most flattering to me.  I can do okay with yellow, gold and orange but they are not as good.  Red is a really hard color for me to wear.  Red eye shadow works okay for me sometimes, but I look absolutely horrible with red lipstick.  I don’t really ever wear lipstick.  I usually just use chapstick or sometimes nude-colored lip gloss.

Anyways, the other thing you can try is to hold aluminum foil up to your face in regular light.  Make sure your face is clean, with no make-up, lotions, etc on.  If the silver foil accentuates your face, you are cool toned.  If it looks bad, then you can try gold foil.  If the gold foil looks better than the silver, you are warm toned.  You can do the same thing with a plain white piece of paper.

Did you learn something new about skin tones?  Leave your feedback in the comments!
 
If you liked this article, check out 
 
What Shape is Your Face? How to Tell.
Face Shapes
 

Read more about my research about HAIR in HAIR 101.

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